Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Microkorg Moog Tutorial

Well, more basics than tutorial per se, but as usual when I do a MicroMoorg video I'm getting lots of questions about it.

I'm afraid I can't explain in too much detail because:

- I've picked up the mod half done in the first place, thus did only see the result of the early work.
- I then gave it to a third party to finish it up.

BUT, what I can do, is provide a general account on the process for people who might consider modifying their Microkorg.


I) The early stages

On this older post, you can see the state I first got the MicroMoorg in.

The owner had cut the plastic at the junction, using a very good saw, just between the keyboard section and the board section. Needless to say, this has to be done very carefully in order not to damage the circuit laying down below.

At this point, the board was totally independent from the keyboard, because once you unscrew the original wood parts and the junction is severed, nothing but the keyboard cables stand between the two sections.

That is why you can lift up the board like it is on the photograph, but if you were to look behind the mod, you'd see that there's just a void, all circuits are open to the air.

That's why you have to add a back panel.






II) The new wood panels

On the above pics, you can see the finished mod, with measures.

Please notes that the measures are in millimeters.

The side panel is composed of two different pieces, which assembled look somewhat like a Little Phatty side panel. You can obviously create a single pieced panel, but this was assembled from various spare wood parts.

The back panel is also composed of two pieces, and here you may see that it isn't varnished yet like the other parts. Then again, a single piece is possible.

The screws in the wood panels then go through the plastic casing on the inside, without touching the circuits.

You can see a hinge is running along the junction on the front. That's because the original plan was to have the board able to move down  à la Minimoog. This proved a bit difficult, and here the more modest solution of a still board was chosen, à la Little Phatty. Here's a mobile mod.

On the inside, the cables going from the circuit board to the keyboard were changed for longer one, so that the added distance wouldn't stress the original ones.

That's the basics of it.

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Clockwork Cities (Microkorg Vocoder)

Featuring the ever popular MicroMoorg
Bass&Lead : Moog Little Phatty
Drums : DSI Tempest
Strings : Gforce Virtual String Machine
Choir : Gforce M-Tron Pro w/ Chamberlin




In the clockwork city they all look the same
Everybody’s working and nobody knows your name
In the clockwork city they all look the same
Everybody’s working and nobody knows your name

In the clockwork city there’s no hope in vain
The heart of the wise in the house of mourning
In the clockwork city there’s no hope in vain
Everybody’s working and nobody knows your name

It’s a room full of toys and nothing’s for real
It’s a desolate place you can never leave
In the clockwork city you’ve nothing left to hide
In the clockwork city where things never die

In the clockwork city you know the game is fixed
How much you lose and how small you gain
All summer long I’ve been wasting my sorrow
All summer long broken and forlorn

Monday, March 11, 2013

Friday, March 8, 2013

Jersey (III)


Fujifilm X-Pro1.
Island of Jersey.

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Jersey (II)




Fujifilm X-Pro1.
Island of Jersey.

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Jersey (I)




Fujifilm X-Pro1.
Island of Jersey.

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

CasioStone

Experimenting these days with various instrumental ditties for a video project.
Here, passing the Casiotone through the Small Stone phaser.
Old school.


Friday, March 1, 2013

Bye-Bye Venom!

I needed to make room for the upcoming MS20 Mini, and to be honest I wasn't using the M-Audio Venom that much.





Why? Well, certainly not because it sounds bad. The Venom is an outstanding instrument, with great value for the price. It can produce very complex grooves and has a character of its own, which cannot be said about a lot of digital synths.



It's really about the interface, or lack thereof : you can't program sounds without the software editor.
By that, I don't mean that it's inconvenient without the software.
I mean to say that you absolutely NEED a computer, because most editing functions aren't accessible through the synth LCD menus.
For instance, you can't select the oscillator waveforms on the synth. That's done with the software editor.
You can select the FX type and its mixing level, but you can't change the FX settings.
And so on.... 
This is really a problem. These drastic limitations mean that you just can't take the synth away and program stuff. You need a computer at all times.
I know there is a way to use an iPad to control the parameters, but I couldn't begin to understand how you're supposed to do that, what with the app and the interfaces needed, and frankly I didn't have the patience when my others synths, well, you just switch them on and you're set to create.




Not having to create sounds on the computer is the reason why I buy hardware instruments in the first place.

That said, if you don't mind working that way, the Venom is a great synth.


Saturday, February 23, 2013

A Year with the Fujifilm X-Pro1

A year ago, I’ve bought a second-hand Fujifilm X-Pro1 to a pro photographer who himself had just found a sweet deal for a Leica M9.

There isn’t much point in writing a review at this stage so I’ll just sum up my experience with the camera and address the criticism it is still facing, some of it relevant, some of it misplaced.


Performance

Just like the X100, a lot of misguided comments has been made on the X-Pro1’s performance.

The burst rate is more than adequate given the type of camera and the handling is easy enough.

But more importantly, the idea that the X-Pro1 is slow to go from OFF to being able to shoot the first picture is absolute bunkum. You just have to know how to use it!

1: The “Quick start” mode should obviously be switched on
2: The Economy mode should be switched off
3: Always use a SD card formatted by the X-Pro1. If your card has been into another device, format it within the X-Pro1 before use.
4: Use the fastest SD card available, especially if you’re shooting RAW (well, you should do that anyway regardless of the camera). I use the Sandisk Extreme Pro 95Mb/s.

When these simple conditions are met, the X-Pro1 is as quick to draw as any similarly priced DSLR I’ve used.



Optical viewfinder (OVF)

This is, of course, a big part of the raison d’être of the X-Pro1, and the only edge this camera has over its sibling XE-1. That leads to the inevitable question : does the OVF justify the price differential (as of today, 400$)? Well, like mentioned, I did buy mine second-hand for pretty much the price of a XE-1, but would I buy a brand new X-Pro1 over a XE-1?

My personal feeling is that I wouldn’t buy any of the two, because : 

1: 400 bucks is just too steep for an optical viewfinder, no matter how amazing it is
2: I can’t stand electronic viewfinders. Mind you, the XE-1’s viewfinder is a decent one, but the technology just isn’t mature. When electronic viewfinders are indiscernible with optical ones, I’ll revise my opinion. In the meantime, I’ll pass.


That said, the X-Pro1’s viewfinder is outstanding. Of course, you’ve got to put up with the inherent limitations of an optical viewfinder (mainly the parallax error). More problematic may be the relative lack of precision of the framelines, which you have to get used to. But overall it’s a joy to use. While the EVF is ok (and the XE-1 sports a refined version of it), I only use it when I'm too close to the subject or to manually focus my 3rd-party lenses. It's only a temporary solution. In my opinion, the real Fuji X experience is using the optical viewfinder.


Auto-Focus

Ha, here’s the hot topic!

Speed: This, I have to say, is not an issue in itself. Sure, the X-Pro1 isn’t as quick as some powerful DSLRs. It’s just not that type of camera. If you want to shoot racing cars or monkeys chasing each other in the trees, you might miss some shots. If you use it as a street photography, portrait, landscape camera, the AF’s speed is more than sufficient. And as you see, I've managed to do some animal photography, and that's using manual focusing, because there is no Fujinon zoom lens yet.

Accuracy: Here’s the real problem. While things have improved thanks to firmware updates, the AF’s ability to put the subject in perfect focus, especially in low light conditions, still leaves to be desired. Mind you, it’s not catastrophic: I rarely miss a shot because the AF went astray. But when it does it’s still annoying considering the price. Accuracy in low light is better when you use the assistance light, but that also means switching off the silent mode. Given that the X-Pro1’s shutter sound is less noisy than on a DSLR (but a lot more than the silent X100), it’s a bit of pity to have the camera make beeping sounds.




That said, some AF mistakes are not technical issues, but a misunderstanding of how the camera operates.

For instance, it has been reported that the AF is consistently wrong when shooting a close subject with the OVF. There are two explanations for this. First, you’ve got to switch to macro if you’re too close (automatic macro might be a good idea, Fuji). Second, you have to remember that using the OVF creates a parallax error. It isn’t a flaw, it’s the nature of optical viewfinders. That means that while you think you are focusing on a certain object in the OVF, the lens is actually looking at another object, due to the parallax effect. Therefore, when shooting a close subject, always switch to the EVF.

All in all, the AF is good enough, but remains the area in which Fujifilm must make progress.


Image quality

The X-Pro1, like the X100 before, don’t boast a huge number of megapixels, but its innovative sensor is simply excellent. While it isn’t full-frame, my personal experiments have shown that it nearly matches the Canon 5D mkII in terms of resolution.



The JPEG rendering is excellent but you might want to shoot RAW in order to maximize the level of detail. The rendition of colors, a respected Fuji trademark, is outstanding and provides a great basis for future processing if you want to (see following examples). But I’ve rarely met a camera that provides such beautiful texture and colors straight out of the camera.




This goes in pair with top-notch ISO performance. I had a mental barrier at 800 on my previous DSLRs. I don’t mind pushing up to 3200 on the X-Pro1, and you’re probably still safe about image quality up to 6400.



Speaking of JPEG, the various film simulation options work pretty good, although I still prefer to post-process on the computer. The monochrome simulations are decent, but can’t match smart post-processing in keeping detail and contrast. Velvia is a bit too oversaturated to my taste, but in some cases it might fit. The Negative Std and Hi simulations are the most interesting to me. They really provide for a special look that I haven’t seen on other cameras’ built-in presets.

Conclusion

I have a great time with the X-Pro1 and never miss my DSLR. The X-Pro1 is more compact, discreet, delivers top quality shots all the time. The only thing that would make me regret buying it is... the X-Pro2, granted it provides more accurate AF.